Manly

Our last day in Sydney, and the whole country of Australia, Ryan and I took the ferry across the harbour to Manly, a northern suburb of Sydney. Kris and Dal left for New Zealand that morning, so we decided to hit the 4 Pines Brewery tour and take a hike around town, through the Sydney Harbour National Park, and along the coast up to North Head.
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Here are some of the colorful birds seen throughout the day:

Noisy Miner

Noisy Miner

Rainbow Lorikeet

Rainbow Lorikeet

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

Sulpher-crested Cockatoo

Laughing Kookaburra

Laughing Kookaburra

And here are some of the interesting animals that inhabit the area that we unfortunately did not see:
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There were also great views of the city and harbour from Manly and the ferry.

Sydney from the Manly side as the clouds rolled in

Sydney from the Manly side as the clouds rolled in

View of the harbour from the ferry

View of the harbour from the ferry

Cicada serenades in the Blue Mountains

Kris, Dal, Ryan, and I took the train from Sydney out to Katoomba, a town in the eastern part of the Blue Mountains. From there, we could hop on and off the Explorer bus that stopped at various scenic spots and trailheads.  The Blue Mountains and Jamison Valley reminded us all of the Grand Canyon, though much greener, and slightly less grand.

First stop: Scenic World and the cable car
We took a cable car across the Jamison Valley to the steepest train in the world, bringing us down to the valley floor and an old mine.

Cable car across to old mine

Cable car between two cliff tops

Great view of Katoomba falls

Katoomba falls

First glimpse of the Three Sisters

Dal and Kris in front of the Three Sisters

Second stop: Honeymoon Lookout and the Prince Henry Cliff Walk

I had to convince Ryan to take this picture

I had to convince Ryan to take this picture

Very picturesque lookouts from the cliff walk

Very picturesque lookouts from the cliff walk

Third stop: Leura cascades from the Bridal View lookout
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Throughout the day, we were serenaded by these lovely guys, 7-year cicadas. Male cicadas can hit 120 dB while trying to attract mates!
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(Written with editorial input from Ryan)

Not a cloud in the sky

The Australia portion of our trip has been full of beautiful weather so I really can’t complain. Unfortunately, even with the sunny, cloudless skies on the Gold Coast, it was still a bit too chilly to go swimming or take a surf lesson like we were planning. Instead, we did a lot of walking on the beach (holding hands of course, cause it is our honeymoon :-) ), relaxing, and enjoying the ocean view from our apartment.

Sunrise from our balcony

Sunrise from our balcony

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Since there is no Thanksgiving in Australia, they move right from Halloween to Christmas. Not only is it weird to see Christmas decorations beginning of November, but the fact that it’s summertime makes it even more surreal.
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Luke (a friend of Jason’s and Craig’s who I became good friends with while in Australia) was kind enough to help coordinate and chauffeur us around a bit. I was thrilled to be able to hang out with him as much as we did, dinner the night we arrived, visiting the hospital (more on that in a little), a night time nature walk to see the glow worms at the Natural Bridge, and a ride back to the train station.

Jason (friend from uni) and his wife Deb had their baby boy Tristan the day Ryan and I arrived on the coast. Luckily, they were accepting visitors at the hospital two days later and we were able to stop by. We got to meet Deb (who I had only spoken to on the phone before) and have a cuddle with Tristan (as they call holding a baby). He was a pretty adorable baby! It was great to be able to see all my friends again and I hope I don’t have to go another 12 years!

Nicole, Jason, Deb, and Luke holding Tristan

Nicole, Jason, Deb, and Luke holding Tristan

Still feels like home in Brisbane

Brisbane and the Gold Coast are generally not on the itinerary for tourists travelling to Australia. However, I spent a year of college (ie. ‘uni’) abroad at the University of Queensland, in a suburb of Brisbane, so Ryan and I scheduled 6 days in the area to visit friends and check out old haunts. Luckily, Ryan was feeling almost all better by this point, and we were able to get out and see the sights. I’ve always said that Austin reminds me of Brisbane, and Ryan agreed that Brisbane has a similar feel to Austin.

The university and the residential college where I lived (Union College) looked relatively the same, with some minor improvements, but there has been a lot of development in downtown Brisbane. First night we walked over the [new] pedestrian bridge to the South Bank, with good views of the city. The great Streets Beach and pool were still there (where my first scuba lesson took place years and years ago), but now there are a ton of restaurants and bars and a marketplace on the weekends. Looks like a fun place!
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November 5 was Melbourne Cup Day; think Kentucky derby, but more national involvement and much more celebration. Everyone, and I mean everyone, leaves work early to party. We headed to a bar in one of the city squares to people watch, have a drink, and catch the race. Since the bartender could not tell us the official drink of the Melbourne cup, we opted for a glass of wine and a mint julep, only to later find out from the women sitting next to us that it is champagne. We then wandered through the city, down the Bicentennial path along the river.
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While in Brisbane, we were able to meet up with Craig and his fiance Karen (Craig is a friend from uni), Edwin (IBMer I met in Argentina), and Snoopy (another friend from uni). It was great to see them all and catch up. Snoopy said I should join the FaceTube so we can keep in touch :-) . Unfortunately, I forgot to get a picture with him!
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The following day we made a quick stop at the XXXX (four ex) Brewery for a tour before catching the train down to the Gold Coast. Ryan compares XXXX to Budweiser in the U.S. XXXX Gold is one of the most popular beers in Australia. Ryan learned how to properly pour a beer from the tap (though I think he already knew).
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Bangkok food and restaurants

Bangkok has lots of international food options, including delicious sushi that we had the night we arrived.
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Interesting sculpture, and very lifelike according to Ryan, at the Thai/Swiss restaurant recommended by our hotel. This restaurant also served Thai beer, sponsor of Real Madrid, and a delicious mango with sticky rice dessert in the shape of a heart. The Thai love European football teams!
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The culprit perhaps? Dinner of green curry chicken and rice with pork, prawns, peaches in a pineapple that was delicious at the time, but may have done Ryan in. I ate a lot of the pineapple rice, maybe it was the curry? Ryan’s other theory was the hotel bathroom water sneaking into his mouth while shaving (knew he should have kept the beard :-) ).
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Palaces, temples, and only slightly larger ferries

Public transportation in Bangkok is slightly lacking, even to the very popular sites. Getting to many of the palaces and temples required taking the MRT (subway) to the BTS (elevated train) to one, if not two, ferries. All of these are unrelated transportation, so a frequent user card for one will not work for the others. The pictures of the ferry and dock used as primary means of transportation speak for themselves. One must be quick on one’s feet when using the ferry; the small ferry slams into the dock, and you need to hurry up and get off or on (sometimes taking a very large leap between the ferry and the dock) before it pulls out again. Ryan notes that the throttle is binary, either go or stop, no slow down.

Ferry

Ferry

And this is the dock

And this is the dock

First stop was the Grand Palace, originally built by King Rama I in the late 1700s, consisting of residences, government buildings, halls, and temples. Additional western style structures resembling specific French and British buildings were added in the early 1900s. We had a very entertaining tour guide who kept talking about needing a girlfriend, but was also full of a lot of interesting information about Thai history and culture. The mural around the palace depicts the Ramakien, the epic story of Thailand, where the humans and the monkeys joined forces to defeat the demons. There are a lot of demon and monkey status throughout the grounds. The Grand Palace also houses the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Emerald Buddha (really made of jade, not emerald) is much smaller than we had thought, standing at only 45 centimeters tall. We made a quick pitstop at the restroom before heading out.
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Wat Pho was the next stop on the list, containing the largest reclining Buddha in the world, 46 meters long and 15 meters high.
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We finished our temple tour the following day, visiting Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), the most well-known temple in Bangkok, and the Golden Mount. Wat Arun consists of a main tower surrounded by four smaller prangs and is entirely covered in detailed stone, tile, and broken Chinese porcelain pieces. Climbing up to the top provided a great view across the river to the main areas of Bangkok.
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Washer/dryer — Score!

Just by chance, we lucked into a totally awesome hotel in Bangkok. Not only were we upgraded to a deluxe premium studio, with nice swan towels and roses for our honeymoon and a good view, but it had a washer/dryer! Considering we only brought enough clothing for about a week, and have been each wearing one of our two pairs of hiking pants almost everyday, that is a huge score. Really, it’s the little things :-)
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The hotel also had a nice pool (used for a brief dip one night) and delicious cocktails one could order poolside.
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From a N.Y. Times article earlier in the year, we had heard about Bang Krachao, Bangkok’s ‘green lung’, a short ferry ride across the Chao Phraya river. Well, you could sort of call it a ferry . . . it was more like one of those canoes you might rent on Town Lake, with what Ryan described as a weed wacker motor on back. That thing the people are getting into, that is the ferry.
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We rented relatively awful bikes and headed off first to the Bang Nam Phueng floating market (tried some yummy food and drink), followed by the Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery (slightly odd, like a bunch of aquariums people would have in their homes), ending at the Sri Nakorn Khuankhan Park (some good wildlife sightings and pretty lake views).
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Back on the Bangkok side of the river, we followed a local to another market in the Khlong Toei district. As Ryan has accurately described, I love color and looking at odd and colorful fruits and vegetables and foods, which means I am totally addicted to walking through all these Asian markets. It’s like a child being presented with shiny colorful objects!
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Curry doesn’t have to be spicy

Our last day in Chiang Mai began with a Thai cooking class. My favorite part was the field trip to the market, where the instructor taught us all about the raw ingredients we would be using. I never knew there were so many types of rice!
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Ryan and I cooked up some yummy pad thai, pad se ew, two soups, and a green and red curry dish, with our very own homemade curry paste. Yes, I did actually make and eat curry. We learned that
1) Curry tastes a ton better when made with fresh ingredients including chilli peppers, garlic, lemongrass, galangal (similar to ginger), shallots, and coriander
2) Curry dishes are very good and not spicy if only an itsy bitsy bit of curry paste is put in them for flavor (that would be my observation) and
3) Making curry paste is time consuming and an upper body workout.
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The cooking workout was followed by a Thai massage at one of the Lila spas. Lila is a business that employees former inmates, providing them with good jobs when they re-enter society. Thai massage includes a bit of deep tissue massage and a whole lot of stretching, in some rather odd positions. I think Ryan found it more uncomfortable than I did.

On to dinner at the night market.  The walk took us past a middle school marching band practicing behind the school. It was fun to watch and listen for a while as they played songs from The Wizard of Oz. We also walked by a ton of temples, one with a large stone structure in the middle of the complex that looked like a mountain from the back.
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Unfamiliar fruit count now up to 5.
The three tried in Chiang Mai were durian (I didn’t think it smelled that bad, but Ryan said my nose wasn’t working), mangosteen, and sapodilla. I also learned that we’ve actually been eating rambutans, not lychees, though lychees, rambutans, and longans are all part of the same family.

Elephants!

Thanks to another Jolley recommendation, our stay in Chiang Mai was at Baan Hanibah bungalow bed and breakfast (hmm, delicious sticky rice with mango/banana/taro). We arrived in the evening and grabbed dinner down the street at the rather romantic Ginger and Kafe restaurant, before an early bedtime in anticipation of the next day’s trip.
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Pick-up for the Elephant Nature Park was promptly at 8am. The Elephant Nature Park is an animal sanctuary that rescues injured, mistreated, and abandoned animals, mostly elephants, but also dogs and cats. We spent the entire day feeding, bathing, and learning about the elephants, absolutely amazing animals and fascinating to watch. Elephants eat 10% of their body weight every day. All the fruit provided by the staff are merely snacks, supplementing the leaves that they eat on their own throughout the sanctuary. The latest baby elephant born in the park weighed in at a birth weight of 100kg, around 220 pounds! Unrelated, Ryan was one of three visitors at the elephant park that day wearing UT shirts. Small world.

Sniffing Ryan

Sniffing Ryan

Maybe she knows Ryan is hiding a watermelon

Maybe she knows Ryan is hiding a watermelon

All they do is eat

All they do is eat

Making friends with one of the older elephants

Making friends with one of the older elephants

Mother and baby

Mother and baby

Roaming down by the river

Roaming down by the river

Protective mother and friend

Protective mother and friend

This elephant spent over 30 minutes covering herself in mud

This elephant spent over 30 minutes covering herself in mud

Finished mud product

Finished mud product

Elephant washing

Elephant washing

More elephant washing

More elephant washing

Donning attire purchased at the elephant park -- Excited to be wearing something new

Donning attire purchased at the elephant park — Excited to be wearing something new

Update on Ryan: We made it to Perth about 36 hours later than expected. Ryan felt well enough to fly, but still is not feeling great, and spent much of the past two days laying in the hotel room. Hoping he gets better soon!

Food, money, and the circus in Cambodia

Our first day in Cambodia, Ryan and I ate dinner in a restaurant that mostly caters to foreigners, providing a tasting menu of local Khmer food. Granted, by the time we ask for no nuts and no spice, we aren’t exactly getting the full local food experience. We also ordered a ‘safe’ caesar salad, as a back-up, which turned out to be pretty funny, because Ryan then decided he didn’t want to eat any uncooked, unpeeled vegetables (eg. lettuce) in Cambodia. The first course consisted of three salads, all very fresh with fruits and herbs, perfect in the warm and humid weather. The second course of mains ranged from chicken soup to amok fish, a local dish made with fish caught in the river. The third course was dessert; two bowls of beans in sweet coconut milk, my favorites, and then cooked sweet potato and mango custard. Oh, and one complementary glass of local rice wine that really cleared out our sinuses. I had no idea what Cambodian food was going in to the dinner and was surprised at how delicious it all tasted.

Examining the food for peanuts

Examining the food for peanuts


The loan peanut that got through, luckily wound up on my plate

The loan peanut that got through, luckily wound up on my plate


Main dish sampler

Main dish sampler

The evening after the Big Circuit bike ride, Ryan and I attended the Phare Cambodian Circus, a great combination of story, music, and acrobatics, with a social mission to help disadvantaged youth in Cambodia. It was a very small round venue, with seats almost on the stage, making you feel up close and personal with the entertainers. The upbeat music had us clapping our hands, and the acrobatics were breathtaking, especially since there is no net. What a fun show!
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Restaurants and shops in Cambodia, or at least everywhere we went in Siem Reap, accept both riel (Cambodian currency) and U.S. dollars. All the ATMs in town dispense dollars and almost all prices are in USD. Everyone accepts USD and then provides change in USD or riel if the change is less than $1, using 1000 reil in place of quarters. Each 1000 riel note is approximately $0.25 — but not quite. Ryan likens it to a national effort to inflate the value of their currency since the exchange rate of 1 USD to 4056 riel is always approximated at 1 USD to 4000 riel.

P.S. We are currently hunkering down in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia for the night (October 31), a slightly unexpected stop. Ryan got sick (reminiscent of Peru) on the first flight of our Bangkok to Perth trip through Kuala Lumpur, so we decided to skip the second flight. Luckily, he is starting to feel better already, so we should hopefully be on our way tomorrow.
P.P.S. And the Red Sox win the World Series?! I’m gone for two months and this is what happens.